A Brief History of the Pinafore Dress
The definition of pinafore varies from person to person. Traditionally, it is a type of apron. I class it as a sleeveless dress, worn with something visible underneath. Whether that is a blouse, turtleneck, or long-sleeved top. The UK version of a the US jumper dress.
When I was making a Tudor skirted jerkin I realised that they're very much like a pinafore dress. They are a sleeveless male dress, worn with a period shirt underneath. The shirt became more visible, with ruffles at the sleeves and neck so it could be seen under large cloaks. The image above of Henry VIII shows him wearing a skirted jerkin with a ruffled shirt under.
Wearing a visible shirt under a dress goes back to the 16th Century. Women wore exquisite silk or velvet gowns, which could not be washed. Underneath they wore a smock or chemise, made from linen, to protect the gowns from the skin. This underlayer gradually became more exposed, and cuffs and collars became more detailed to create a more luxurious look. The painting above shows the Portuguese Empress Isabella in 1548, wearing a velvet gown with gold detailing. Under the gown is a very visible chemise. It is intricately made, with a ruffled neck, long billowing sleeves, and embroidery around the neck and cuffs.
Women continued to wear chemises and chemisettes as frequently cleaning their dresses was still not possible, but they were less seen throughout the baroque and rococo era. The Victorian era started with the rise in popularity of the boat neck, wanting a clean line, however decorated, around the shoulders. Many day dresses of the later Victorian era had a corresponding underbodice, like this dress from 1885-8. This was to help give women more variety in their wardrobes. It is so easy to link this dress with the pinafore dresses we see today. Although the dress has sleeves, the different directions of stripes on the sleeves and underbodice compared to the rest of the dress make it unusual.
Pinafore dresses are usually associated with clothing for children, and as such Judy Garland wore one when, at aged 17, she starred as Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz. The pinafore was chosen to make her look younger, as was the blue gingham, which was thought to blur her figure.The pinafore dress worn is a standard look, with shoulder straps, a fitted waistband, and a full skirt. The blouse it's worn with has a high neck, and full sleeves - adding to her childlike look.
This image of a group of Land Army girls during the Second World War shows them wearing cotton "bib and brace" overalls, dungarees to you and me, with blouses and jumpers underneath. Dungarees were practical workwear, and a variation of the pinafore dress. During the war, overalls could be purchased without rationing coupons.
Audrey Hepburn's costumes for Sabrina, designed by Edith Head, included a black pinafore covered in white polka dots, under it she wears a black long-sleeved t-shirt. This is such a classic look, making the pinafore dress look a lot more mature than the Dorothy dress.
Sources Fashion, The Ultimate Book of Costume and Style. http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/157306 http://judygarlandnews.com/2012/03/28/dorothy-costumes-through-the-years/ http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/157306
